Archive for the ‘Action Sports Stuff’ Category

Breakdown: Anatomy of a Stock Ski Image

Thursday, January 5th, 2012

It’s a pretty slow start to winter here in Utah this year, so I figured maybe I can tease ol’ Mother Nature into submission with some love from last year. I spend a great deal of time shooting skiing in the winter, and it’s about a whole lot more than shredding pow and high fives (though that definitely makes up a decent chunk of it!). There’s a great deal of work that goes into every image,  on both the part of the photographer and the athlete. It requires vision, communcation and an understanding of the end product from both parties. Read on for a little insight into the making of this image of Carston Oliver at Alta, UT.

1. Rule numero uno in most, if not all ski imagery is tack sharp focus. Obviously, there’s a little wiggle room here if you’re going after some other sort of creative effect (blur, etc.), but by and large, your images MUST be tack sharp if they are to stand any chance at getting published. This requires communication to the athlete as to exactly where you hope for the climactic action to occur. This is vital to communicate, as I typically frame my image around this “hot spot”. If the athlete misses it, the shot will likely be a throw away. Carston hits the mark nearly every time. When working with new athletes (to me), I’ll typically give myself a bit of tolerance in either pulling back from what I expect the final image to be, or by following the athlete to a greater extent instead of having him simply ski through my frame, holding the camera still. If I trust the athlete and can see the exact frame I hope to capture, I will pre-focus on the hot spot, as was the case here.

2. I am a stickler about paying attention to the edges of your frame. It’s vital to have that separation between the skier and the edge of the frame for both aesthetic and functional reasons. Firstly, it gives the subject of the image adequate breathing room, and negates the visual tension that would occur were the skier too close to the edge. Secondly, this is very usable (and necessary) space for copy. This image was shot for cover dimensions, and this space around the subject is a must!

3. With most side profile ski images like this, you need to decide what to include in terms of terrain and line choice. Do you want to show where the skier is coming from or where he’s going? Or do you want to include both? In this image, I knew the backlit powder trail would be an integral part of the shot, which means I needed to show a hefty chunk of turn behind the actual hot spot. Again, this is crucial to understand before the action takes place, as it affects the entire dynamic and composition of the image. Additionally, there was a small cliff directly underneath this turn. So–the shot was best when showing where the skier had come from, not so much where he was going. I’ve employed the ridgeline, turn trench and powder spray as leading lines, taking the viewer from the upper right corner, directly to the skier, where the viewer can then wander into the space below (see #2) and continue digesting the remainder of the image.

4. This background serves two purposes. First, it gives the viewer perspective and a feeling of exposure. It serves as the separating element between the skier and “all the rest”. It’s the contrast I always look for both in terms of subject matter, texture and color to give separation and add depth to an image. By using a telephoto lens here, I’ve compressed the scene, bringing that background directly in and almost “on top” of the action. This is a great way to fill your frame with the goods, and get rid of everything else. Lastly, this background serves as usable space for a magazine masthead. Ideally, it would be a little less busy, but it still works dimensionally.

5. More negative space. Again, crucial to the hopeful editorial success of this image. This space is absolutely necessary if this image is ever to have legs as a cover. Editors need aesthetic, functional space in which to add copy, headlines, etc. It also helps to provide that clean separation between foreground and background.

Want to make this work for you? Find aesthetic locations with good snow. Then hook up with skilled athletes that can exact turns with surgical precision, while maintaining that perfect photogenic form. Finally, learn how to communicate your vision in a verbal manner. It looks completely different from the athlete’s perspective, and it’s up to you as the photographer to make sure you’re both on the same page. Good luck!

Image Breakdown: Mountain Biking for Commercial Client

Tuesday, September 6th, 2011

Image breakdown of mountain biker at Deer Valley Resort, UT

Happy Tuesday! Perfect day for an image breakdown if I do say so myself. This image was shot during a commissioned shoot for Deer Valley Resort several weeks ago and serves as a pretty good template for a standard action/active lifestyle image designed for client promotional/collateral use. Sit back and have a read…

1. Focus! Focus in an image like this should always be on the eyes of the athlete. Tack sharp is key here in order give proper separation from the background. On this shot, I pre-selected my focus zone in camera and began tracking the athlete about 2 seconds before actually clicking the first frame, thus allowing my camera to grab proper focus before the athlete hit the sweet spot.

2. Blurred foreground serves two purposes– a) takes the viewer directly to the subject with the soft/sharp contrast and b) provides usable negative space for the client for copy, logos, etc.

3. More negative space for the client to work with. When shooting imagery for marketing collateral, it’s important to think beyond simple image dynamics. You have to keep client needs in mind. This is a frame filling image without filling every part of the frame.

4. Direction. The athlete is moving IN to the frame, keeping the viewer IN the frame. Were the athlete moving out of the frame, it would, in fact, take the viewer out of the frame. That’s the kind of tension we don’t want. We want people hanging out at our party. Keep them in the frame.

5. Blurred background. This helps to further draw the eye to the subject of the image and give that separation between subject and background (refer back to #1). This is achieved by shooting at a moderate focal length, coupled with a large aperture of f3.5. Additionally, note that we’ve given adequate space above the subject for logos, masthead or anything else the client sees fit to throw up there.

6. Fill light. It’s important to see faces in these images. Fill light can be achieved with flash or reflectors. I’m not much of flash guy, especially when moving light and fast. Given the light source (behind and to the right of the athlete), fill was crucial to capturing a complete image. This was accomplished with my assistant holding a reflector and following the athlete as he came around the banked corner. Requires a skilled assistant (thanks Nate!)

Best Photog Watch Ever???

Wednesday, February 16th, 2011

As a landscape and active lifestyle photographer, I spend as much time looking at sunrise/sunset times as a wall street junkie spends checking the DOW. It dictates when, where and how I shoot. It is one of the single most useful and vital pieces of information to getting my job done, and getting it done well. If I could, I would hotwire my brain to the big eye in the sky and I would just know when that sun would rise and set each day. That would be too easy…

Nearly just as easy, however, would be having that information on your wrist each and every day. Enter the Suunto Core Extreme Edition Everest. With over 400 pre-programmed locations worldwide for determining sunrise/sunset times every day of the year, it is certainly one of the handiest tools I’ve discovered out there for making good on the cliche of being at the right place at the right time. Sure you can look up the same info on your phone, iPad or any number of other devices, but I am all about simplifying and minimizing. The easier it is, the more useful it will be. And how often do we find ourselves wondering this info where phone service and/or wi-fi is nowhere to be found?  If you’re serious about getting serious images, check out this watch. There’s a host of other features you’ll find useful as well (altimeter/barometer, compass, storm alarm, depth meter, etc.), and the extra super bonus feature? It looks rad. ‘Nuff said.

Capturing that five-star powder shot!

Monday, February 14th, 2011

Skier Ben Wheeler skiing deep powder at Snowbird Ski & Summer Resort, UT.

Pow. Pow. Powder!!!

Still getting through my edit from the Warren Miller shoot last week at Snowbird Ski and Summer Resort. This shot of Ben Wheeler happens to be one of my faves from the day. It’s nothing revolutionary by any means, but there’s something about an action-infused, frame-filling powder shot that gets the blood going.

So what’s the key to getting that powder keeper? Luck? Super rad really huge professional looking camera? Cool guy goggle tan? Yes. Yes. Annnnnnd yes. Ok not really.

In all seriousness, there are a couple of key elements to successfully capture powder shots time after time.

1. Great snow. Yes. Thank you captain obvious. But it’s true folks. Without great snow, you can’t expect to create that mouth watering pow shot.

2. Skilled skier. This is perhaps the most important element. A very good skier can make even marginal snow look better than most can imagine. There’s a huge difference between a strong skier, and a skier that knows what to do and how to do it in front of the lens.

3. Fast camera/fast lens. While these are not absolutely required, it will make it much easier for you to capture that one perfect keeper. The Canon 1D MkIV shoots 10 fps (frames per second), which is ridiculously fast. Every frame matters, however, when both the skier and the snow are changing places at fractions of a second. A fast lens (preferably f2.8 or faster) is key to stopping the action in low light conditions and separating your skier from the background with shallow depth of field shooting.

4. AF Confidence. I trade off between focus tracking with auto focus and pre focusing with manual focus. It all depends on the type of shot. In this, as we were shooting with a cinematographer, the skier must ski a fluid line, which makes it much harder (if not impossible) for the photog to pre-focus. This is when you must understand your AF system and how it functions. Read your manual. Some AF systems are super customizable, and the better you understand it, the better it will perform for you.

5. AF-on button. This is Canon specific, but I imagine Nikon has something similar. By tweaking your custom settings, you can set your shutter button so that it affects only the actual shutter operation and metering. By utilizing your AF-on button (with your thumb) throughout the entire burst shooting sequence, you allow you camera to micro-adjust focus and track the skier between each frame.

6. Pre-visualize. Understand what you want to fill the frame. Understand how the snow will react to the skier. Understand where in his/her turn your money shot is. All of this translates into which lens you use, how you compose the image, where you place the skier in your frame and how you follow him/her throughout the sequence.

Now pray for snow, and go get em’!

Canon 1D MkIV, 70-200 2.8IS, Clik Elite Contrejour backpack


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